You can choose from 3 options how to get from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang:

• Airplane (6500 – 17 000 baht [180 – 470$]/ 4 hours)
• Local bus to Huay Xai border city (around 3 hours) and jump at the same day or next day to speed or slow boat (1255 baht [35$] per person/ 2-3 days)
• Minivan to border and then take a Lao’s bus (approx 1270 [36$] baht per person / 1 day)

We have chosen the second option with 2 days slow boat as it offers Mekong river ride and safer transport. We also wanted to stay 2 days in Huay Xai for Gibbon experience. To read about this unique story please click here.

Part I: Chiang Rai -> Chiang Khong -> Huay Xai

Chiang Rai was our last destination before moving to Laos. To get closer to the border, to Chiang Khong which is 5 km from a border we chose local bus (red bus) which departs from the bus station in the city center. We stayed at Ann Hotel 200 m from the bus station so we easily walked in the morning to catch the bus. The bus cost 65 baht (2$) left surprisingly on time. Buses run every hour but they told us that border close at 5 p.m. Well we don’t know if it’s true :/

Our Red Bus:

This bus trip was the most authentic in Thailand we had. The Bus itself remembered at least 20 years of service but it had stewardess who collected money and organized stops. After 2 hours slow ride we reached Chiang Khong and we stopped on the crossroad where tuk tuk were already lined waiting to take us for last 5 km to the border (it’s possible to walk but in a direct sun we don’t recommend it). So we jumped on tuk tuk paid 50 bath per person (which is crazy comparing with 2 hours drive for 65 baht) and in few minutes we were opening our passports to get a stamp from Thai officer. There was no queue at all and in 5 minutes we were ready. For reaching Lao immigration zone we had to cross the river Mekong over the bridge. The only way is used their shuttle bus and pay another 20 bath per person. After few minutes we were filling visa papers to get a Lao visa because we didn’t arrange them before.

LAOS VISA on arrival process: It’s totally fine to get your visa on arrival to Lao border. You can arrange it trough your embassy but there is no need. In most cases it’s also cheaper to get them on arrival. In our case, we saved 30 dollars each. The process was very smooth, it took us 10 minutes to fill 2 papers and together with one photo give it to the officer. Then we waited for approx. 5 min paid 30 dollars and were ready to explore Laos 🙂 The price for Visa differs from 30 – 35$ depends on the country.

To get to the center of Huay Xai we had to use tuk tuk. They have a small monopoly for this journey as we found out (we called them tuk tuk mafia). It was an unpleasant surprise when we asked for the price and they said 100 baht per person for 10 km ride (in Thailand you would pay 50 baht). We tried to negotiate with them but without success. They were rude and one of them said : “This is not Thailand anymore”. We ask some minivan drivers for a ride but they didn’t want to talk to us pointed back to tuk tuk drivers. We were angry and decided together with other young travelers walk off the border and try our luck to catch some ride on the main road. We walked around 300 m and saw a group of other tuk tuk drivers. We tried again to negotiate the price and finally we agreed on 70 bath per person and in 20 minutes we were on the main street in the center.

Part II: Huay Xai -> Pak Beng -> Luang Prabang (2 days slow boat)

Where to buy tickets:
– you can buy in your hotel in Huay Xai or travel agency for 240-250 000 KIP (30$, pickup at hotel included + check-in)
– you can go and by directly in port and buy it cheaper for 220 000 KIP (27$, no pickup and self-check-in)

1st day on slow boat to Pakbeng – don’t forget to buy food and water

We had pickup at 9 a.m. and they drove us maybe 1 km to the port. They managed check-in for us and we were waiting 2 hours to departure. We stored our big backpacks under the boat floor and went to buy water and food and had some ice coffee and fruit shake in hot waiting time. Boat has no window 🙂 you can fully enjoy Mekong view, hot sunny weather and small space for sitting. If you can choose, prefer to sit in the front because in the back is really noisy engine! We arrived at 5 p.m. to Pakbeng city. This is very small city and only one street with food and drinks. You don’t need to book hotel in advance. It is cheaper to find accommodation after arrival. They offered room for 2 from 50-100 000 KIP (6-10$). We stayed in Pakbeng hostel (very close to port) for 60 000 KIP (7$) for both i double room. The room was clean and even better than other more expensive rooms.

2nd day on slow boat to Luang Prabang – again don’t forget to buy food and water

You can leave you backpacks in the boat from 8 a.m. and boat leaves at 9 a.m. and it takes approx 8-9h. We bought breakfast, enough water and food for the whole day and jumped on the boat for the second part of the journey. As there were too many people on the boat last day, there were 2 boats with less space for Tom’s legs. Again nice Mekong journey with almost the same view around 🙂 Perfect time to relax, read book or sleep. The boat left us in the port where you had to buy ticket for 20 000 KIP per person for tuk tuk to the city center. Tuk tuk left us in front of the night market. This is also the tourist and hostel area around the market. We were so happy to take shower and enjoy night Luang Prabang.

Landing port close to Luang Prabang 

Welcome in Luang Prabang

Tuk Tuk to city center